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petersen114
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Join Date: Jul 2007
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The Smart-Workshop smart starter is incredible. I did a comparison between the Smart Starter and my Mugen NiMh starter. Both igniters were fully charged for the test with the same engine and plug. I was one of the chosen testers for the igniters and put it through the paces and then some. One of the best parts of it is it is charged via USB and the battery is replaceable.
nitrous36, token and GeorgeCk like this.
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Roelof
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2v is normal for a glow plug while all those NiCad ignitors just provide 1.2v
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petersen114
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Originally Posted by srt4johnny
How many volts is it outputting? Wonder if it shortens glowplug life I think most glowplugs are only rated for 2 volts tops
Output is 1.4v on my meter. It also has a battery meter ad shows if a plug is good via a green light.
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cbh148
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Getting back into nitro in 2019, I thought for sure that there'd be multiple 18650 battery'd glow ignitors out there given how wide-spread and effective those batteries have become, but was surprised there wasn't any. Looks like that's changing.
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nitrous36
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Glad I saw this. Been considering getting back into nitro abd building a buggy. Looks like the smart starter will give easier starts and lets you know if/when a plug is fouled. It will remove some of the frustration.
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Matt Piva
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Wow that smart charger is pretty damn strong. Once my TLR igniters start getting old Im gonna have to try one. I wont lie tho, my TLR igniters have lasted forever, I got two just cause previous Losi ones (the old crappy blue igniters) always failed after a few months but I havent even had to use the second one and its been years Ive used just the one. The new gen TLR charger is solid.
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fyrstormer
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Lithium-ion glowplug heaters have a voltage conversion circuit inside, and that circuit can fail. NiMH glowplug heaters may not make the glowplug glow as brightly, but they're 100% reliable with no electronics to fail, and it doesn't matter how bright the glowplug glows anyway -- if the glowplug is visibly glowing at all, it's hot enough to start the engine.
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Matt Piva
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Originally Posted by fyrstormer
Lithium-ion glowplug heaters have a voltage conversion circuit inside, and that circuit can fail. NiMH glowplug heaters may not make the glowplug glow as brightly, but they're 100% reliable with no electronics to fail, and it doesn't matter how bright the glowplug glows anyway -- if the glowplug is visibly glowing at all, it's hot enough to start the engine.
thats what the Tlr igniter is, in Rc its lipo on most things but the glow igniter nicd and nimh are the way to go. All my lipo igniters have failed.
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fyrstormer
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Originally Posted by Matt Piva
that’s what the Tlr igniter is, in Rc it’s lipo on most things but the glow igniter nicd and nimh are the way to go. All my lipo igniters have failed.
Yep. My Dynamite LiPo igniter failed years ago. It's better to just run the battery voltage the glowplugs were designed for. A "sub-C" NiMH battery may only output 1.2V, but its peak amperage is more than enough to get the job done. People who think 1.5V-ish igniters aren't any good have probably been using the kind that run on alkaline batteries, which have very limited peak amperage and so their output voltage sags below 1V after just a few seconds. That doesn't happen with NiMH.
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Roelof
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I did repair some of thos Dynamite initors but then from Kyosho (same thing) when they first came on the market. With all the induction coil was broken lose from the PCB because the coil itself was not glued tight.
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Matt Piva
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Yep the TLR ignitors are nicd, all my lipo igniters are junk. Crazy. Lipo is suppose to be bullet proof yet tonight I threw away two igniters and a starter box battery. Money money money.
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fyrstormer
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Originally Posted by Roelof
I did repair some of thos Dynamite initors but then from Kyosho (same thing) when they first came on the market. With all the induction coil was broken lose from the PCB because the coil itself was not glued tight.
In my case the voltage conversion circuit failed electronically. The output voltage dropped below 1V even on a full charge, but the output voltage wasn't 0V as I would expect if there were a physically broken circuit.
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